My interest in photography developed in early high school, mainly using a basic Canon digital camera before upgrading to an Olympus Pen E-PM2. In 2012, my senior year, I was able to get a Canon Rebel EOS T3 as well as 50mm and 80mm lenses. Today I still shoot using that same lens, although I have upgraded to a Canon EOS 70D. Today I work with digital, film as well as alternative photographic processes, often using my digital photographs as the basis for some of my negative prints. I am still exploring traditional film photography, working with the Holga 120N and both Ilford and Kodak film, but I also make use of the Fujifilm INSTAX Neo 90 and Polaroid SX-70 and 600. I have provided some explanations of the processes I use as well as examples of those works (which can also be found under the photography tab in the menu). Thank you for your interest in my work!
The cyanotype process starts out by converting digital image files into negative format, usually by creating a psd file in Adobe Photoshop. The image is then printed out on transparent paper (I use Pictorico Pro Ultra Premium OHP Transparency Film), then the cyanotype chemicals, ammonium iron (III) citrate and potassium ferricyanide are combined in equal parts and painted onto the chosen material. Any material can be used, although bear in mind the durability when you have to wash the print in water. After the print dries lay down the digital negative and expose the image. Exposing the print to UV light (you can leave it out in the sun for a few hours or make/purchase a UV box which shortens the process down to 6-15 minutes) will cause the color to appear to be a lime green. Rinse the print in room temperature water to wash away the excess chemicals and reveal the blue image below. You can do additional rinses of water combined with tea, white vinegar, and hydrogen peroxide to achieve different tonal ranges. Once the print is dried you now have a cyanotype!
In addition to cyanotypes, some of my other alternative photographic processes include pinhole photography as well a instant film, exploring both the Fujifilm INSTAX and Polaroid Originals film for both the SX-70 and 600 Polaroid camera models. One of the many reasons I like the instant film process, especially for my fine art photography and portraits, is the limited amount of shots. While it is always fun to have an instantaneous photoshoot, being mindful of the amount film I have forces me to compose my photograph and make sure everything is exactly as I want it before I click the shutter (this practice should apply to the digital camera as well, but we all get carried away from time to time). As for my analog work, I use three different cameras for a variety of effects. The first film camera I worked with was the Holga 120N. It only has two apertures (8/1) and a 1/110 shutter speed, but with the right training and timing you can create moody pieces reminiscent of early photography. I also make use of the Mamiya C330 TLR and the Asahi Pentax SV, allowing me to focus more on 120mm and 35 mm film.
Some of my other digital work has been done with the iPhone 6S, although not by the phone itself. Photojojo sells attachable macro lenses which fit most smartphones, so I have been able to use mine to create detailed photos of objects that would otherwise be blurred by being too close. While these photos are taken with an iPhone I always transfer them over to my computer for editing in Lightroom, allowing me to achieve the best quality possible.